Above the Clouds
Stage 5 of the Camino Primitivo is legendary among pilgrims. The Hospitales route takes you along a mountain ridge at over 1,100 metres, with panoramic views stretching across Asturias and into the distant peaks of the Picos de Europa. On clear days, you can see the Cantabrian coast to the north. It is, without question, one of the most breathtaking stretches of any Camino route.
But this beauty comes with real challenges. The ridge is fully exposed to wind, rain, and fog. There are no villages, no bars, and no shelter for roughly 15 kilometres. You need to be prepared.
Two Routes, One Decision
At the beginning of Stage 5, you face a choice. The Hospitales route follows the high ridge — the original medieval path. The alternative route drops through the valley via the village of Pola de Allande. Most guidebooks and experienced pilgrims recommend the Hospitales route in good weather, but the valley route is the safer choice when conditions are poor.
Check the weather forecast carefully the evening before. If fog, heavy rain, or thunderstorms are predicted, take the valley route. There is no shame in choosing safety — the mountains will be there for another day.
What to Expect on the Ridge
The climb from Pola de Allande is steep and sustained. You gain about 600 metres of elevation in the first 8 kilometres. The path is well-marked but can be muddy after rain. As you reach the ridge, the landscape opens up dramatically — rolling green hills, distant peaks, and the remains of medieval pilgrim hospitals that gave the route its name.
The “hospitales” were simple stone shelters that monks maintained for pilgrims crossing the mountains. Only ruins remain today, but they are a powerful reminder of the route history.
Essential Preparation
- Carry at least 2 litres of water — there are no refill points on the ridge
- Pack a warm layer even in summer — the temperature drops significantly at altitude
- Bring rain gear regardless of the forecast
- Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms in summer
- Carry enough food for a full day — pack a substantial lunch
- Make sure your phone is charged and download offline maps
The Descent
After the ridge, the descent to La Mesa is gradual and passes through forests and small hamlets. The contrast between the exposed ridge and the sheltered valley below is striking. By the time you reach La Mesa, you will have completed what many consider the defining stage of the Camino Primitivo.
