A Feast at Every Stage
The Camino Primitivo crosses two of Spain’s most celebrated culinary regions: Asturias and Galicia. While the terrain may be tough, the food more than compensates. Every village, however small, seems to harbour a bar or restaurant serving honest, generous portions of regional cooking that will restore both body and spirit.
Here is a guide to the dishes and drinks you should not miss along the way.
Asturias: Stages 1–6
Asturias calls itself “the natural paradise,” and its food reflects a land of green pastures, mountain streams, and the Cantabrian Sea. The portions are enormous — this is country food designed to fuel hard work.
Fabada Asturiana
The undisputed king of Asturian cuisine. This rich bean stew is made with large white fabes beans, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and lacón (cured pork shoulder). It is heavy, warming, and absolutely perfect after a cold, wet morning on the trail. You will find it on nearly every menu del día in the Asturian stages.
Sidra Natural
Asturian cider is nothing like commercial cider. It is flat, dry, and slightly tart, poured from a great height — the escanciado — to aerate it. Every town has a sidrería where you can watch this ritual. A bottle shared with fellow pilgrims in the evening is one of the great pleasures of the Primitivo.
Cachopo
Two enormous fillets of veal stuffed with ham and cheese, breaded and fried. It is absurdly large, gloriously indulgent, and best shared between two hungry pilgrims.
Galicia: Stages 7–13
Crossing into Galicia, the cuisine shifts. The flavours become more subtle, the seafood more prominent, and the wines replace cider as the drink of choice.
Pulpo á Feira
When you reach Melide on Stage 11, you must eat pulpo. Tender octopus served on a wooden plate, drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with pimentón and coarse salt. Melide is famous for its pulperías, and Ezequiel is the most celebrated — but any of them will serve you well.
Queso de Arzúa-Ulloa
This creamy, mild cow’s milk cheese comes from the area around Arzúa, where Stage 12 ends. Buy a wedge from a local shop and eat it with bread for tomorrow’s trail lunch.
The Pilgrim Menu
Most restaurants along the Camino offer a menú del peregrino for 10-13 euros. This typically includes a first course (soup or salad), a main course (meat or fish), dessert, bread, and a drink. It is remarkable value and ensures you eat well without spending much.