The First Road to Santiago
In the year 829 AD, King Alfonso II of Asturias set out from his capital in Oviedo to verify an extraordinary claim: a hermit named Pelayo had discovered what were believed to be the remains of the Apostle Saint James in a remote corner of Galicia. The king walked from Oviedo to the site, becoming the first known pilgrim on what would become the most important pilgrimage route in medieval Europe.
This original route — from Oviedo through the mountains of Asturias and into Galicia — is what we now call the Camino Primitivo, the Primitive Way. It is the oldest of all the Camino de Santiago routes, predating the more famous Camino Francés by over two centuries.
Why “Primitivo”?
The name does not mean the route is simple or basic. Rather, it means “original” or “first.” It was the primitive — the primary — way to Santiago before other routes developed as the pilgrimage grew in popularity across Europe.
The Medieval Highway
For the first two centuries of the Santiago pilgrimage, the Primitivo was the main route. Pilgrims from across the Iberian Peninsula gathered in Oviedo, where the cathedral housed its own impressive collection of relics, before continuing west. The route followed Roman roads and ancient paths through the mountains, connecting small monasteries and churches that offered hospitality to travellers.
As the pilgrimage grew and French pilgrims began arriving in larger numbers through the Pyrenees, the Camino Francés gradually overtook the Primitivo in popularity. But the original route never disappeared entirely — local pilgrims and those seeking a more challenging, contemplative experience continued to walk it through the centuries.
The Modern Revival
The late 20th century saw a remarkable revival of the Camino de Santiago, and the Primitivo benefited from this renewed interest. In 2015, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela. Today, roughly 20,000 pilgrims walk the Primitivo each year — a fraction of the Francés numbers, which gives it a quieter, more introspective character that many find closer to the original spirit of the pilgrimage.
Walking in the Footsteps of a King
When you walk the Camino Primitivo today, you are following — quite literally — in the footsteps of Alfonso II. Many of the paths, mountain passes, and river crossings have not changed in over a thousand years. It is a living connection to the very beginning of the Camino, and that awareness adds a profound dimension to every step.